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烟台的馆子:荣祥东聚阁

  • 2026-02-15 12:41:07
烟台的馆子:荣祥东聚阁

今天先上图。

荣祥是有自己打捞的船，海鲜新鲜，辣炒爬虾，辣炒螃蟹基本都有籽。
荣祥最鼎盛的时候，那条街都是他的，三家还是四家店我记不清了，只记得那时间社会风气腐败吧，达官贵人都爱去，去吃饭要预约，不然肯定要排队，一个小时起步的排。
最开始那家坐在马扎上吃，桌桌都是这两个菜，辣炒爬虾，辣炒螃蟹，就像养马岛驼子那家辣炒扇贝边，就像西泊子那家海肠饺子，都是鼎有名的，别家做不出来那个味。
如今的胶东，辣炒扇贝边成了每家饭店的推荐曲目，这玩意复刻起来容易，胶东的扇贝原也不值钱，取了扇贝丁，剩下的扇贝边是没有人要的垃圾，现在加了辣椒炒一下能卖58一份，扇贝丁谁稀罕啊，丁是垃圾，光怪陆离的。
海肠饺子没有流行起来，海肠捞饭倒是成了胶东特色，海肠捞饭怎么可能比海肠饺子好吃？
但道理我懂，一份海肠捞饭上面飘几根海肠子，下面一大海碗米饭，加点其他佐料，大部分店甚至加了那份扇贝边剩下来的不值钱的扇贝丁，加之五花肉丁佐以增香，这一大份够三个人吃饱了，能卖给客人百八的。
用料最贵的就是那几个根海肠，那几根海肠要是拿来包饺子，还不够一个人吃半饱，那同理三个人要吃饱一顿海肠饺子，就至少要三个百八的，主食人均要一百肯定是卖不出去的，还得吃菜呢，所以卖海肠饺子肯定不如海肠捞饭赚钱。
所以最终流行起来的，肯定是利润更高的海肠捞饭，以及辣炒扇贝边。
而辣炒爬虾，辣炒螃蟹，要新鲜爬虾和螃蟹，还能肥美有籽，没有自己的船那利润就更低了，更何况荣祥的厨师以及配料，大部分饭店也具备不了，荣祥的买卖再好的时候，辣炒爬虾和辣炒螃蟹也没能被整个胶东复刻成流行趋势。
流行这东西，很多时间是由商家引导的，就像民宿流行之前欧式极简风，现在流行奶油风，甚至侘寂风，而不流行洛可可和巴洛克的极繁主义或者中式风格，肯定是店家装修成本打不住啊。
再由此展开我不熟悉的，流行穿聚酯纤维大塑料子，到了冬天人人自带镰刀闪电满地跑，却不穿纯棉粗布老麻布。
再贵点的房子我能猜出来，我们住在密斯凡德罗的less is more极简火柴盒子电梯大楼里美滋滋，而不是前后花园的三层别野小洋房。
这都是商家的引导，我们的喜好厌恶，我们的生活方式，我们的意识形态，甚至我们会爱上的人，选择的伴侣，为了盲从生儿育女，又为了流行不再生育，最终，我们想成为自己的路，根本就不像自己以为的，那么轻松又惬意。
谁又敢说，自己不是宇宙里的楚门？
算了，意识形态不重要，重要的是承载它的这具躯体。
所以，说回荣祥。
荣祥开了分店，又开了大酒店，都在一条街上，从街头到街尾都是去他家吃饭的人，熙熙攘攘，那条街都因为他们家出名起来。
人人眼见他起高楼。
国家开启了反腐之路，去饭店吃饭要自己花钱了，至少报销的不那么顺畅，海吃海喝风气被叫停，泱泱喝酒大省山东，加之反黑除恶，社会风气变好。
总要引导消费，人的消费习惯得改变，不然贪官污吏不花钱，你再不花钱我也不花钱，店店都得倒啊。
那就让你们开始爱旅游吧，丁真成为现象级除了他本身，更是顺应时代的，过去只是文艺青年，如今人人都要来一场说走就走的旅行。
店家的服务变得比之前更难，自己花钱的游客成了每个城市的消费主力。但爱旅游的工薪阶层花的是自己打工赚来的银子，你服务不好我就给你来个差评，大众点评嘛，店家反反复复被磋磨被教育，大浪淘沙，留下那些卑躬屈膝愿意好好做生意的店铺。
所以，荣祥的三家店又变回一家，一家也不用排队了。
可沧海桑田，斗转星移呢，我原来下了班时不时就会驱车一个半小时去烟台吃的辣炒爬虾，辣炒螃蟹，周末三个小时去青岛逛海信广场，如今也都没有那个心气了。
我也终于变成了真正意义上的中年人，被生活磋磨，为了碎银几两，为了上述的服务精神跪在地上给客人擦地，过去走四方，路迢迢，水茫茫，熙熙攘攘，看夕阳落下去又回来，如今地没老天没荒，只感慨人生这岁月长又长……
嗯，岁月悠长，何以解忧？
那就还是吃点喝点吧！
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000437s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=g460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000885s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000369s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000293s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000715s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000382s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000652s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 465508 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000500s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1771530193 WHERE `id` = 465508 [ RunTime:0.003518s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000610s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 465508 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000521s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 465508 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000815s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 465508 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.000637s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 465508 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.000704s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 465508 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.001964s ]
0.081128s